Application Report on Chemical Raw Materials for Hair Curling
Overview
Chemical raw materials play a core role in hair curling products, enabling the transformation and fixation of hair structure through precise chemical reactions. The global market for perm and relaxant products, which rely heavily on these raw materials, reached $1.06 billion in 2024 and is projected to grow at a 5.50% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) to $1.12 billion in 2025, further expanding to $1.63 billion by 2032. Meanwhile, the global hair styling polymer market, a key segment of curling raw materials, is expected to hit $1.82 billion in 2025 and rise to $2.38 billion by 2032 with a CAGR of 3.88%. These growth trends reflect the sustained demand for curling products worldwide, driving steady consumption of core chemical raw materials.
Core Chemical Raw Materials and Their Applications
Reducing Agents
Reducing agents are the most critical raw materials in the hair curling process, primarily responsible for breaking the disulfide bonds in hair keratin to soften hair structure. Thioglycolic acid and its salts, such as ammonium thioglycolate, are the most widely used representatives. Ammonium thioglycolate is a staple in both perm lotions and hair relaxers, with typical concentrations capped at 11% and applied at a dosage of approximately 20 mg/cm² in either emulsion or aqueous solutions. Its pH value is usually maintained at 9.5, and application durations range from 30 to 45 minutes for perming and straightening respectively. Another common reducing agent is cysteine hydrochloride, favored for its relatively milder properties compared to traditional thioglycolate derivatives, helping to minimize hair damage during the curling process. These reducing agents are consumed in large quantities globally, with demand closely tied to the production volume of alkaline perms and ammonium thioglycolate relaxants, which dominate the perm product market.
Oxidizing Agents
Oxidizing agents are essential for setting curls by re-forming the broken disulfide bonds in hair, ensuring long-lasting styling effects. Sodium bromate and hydrogen peroxide are the primary oxidizing agents used in curling products. Sodium bromate is commonly found in neutral and acid perm formulations, while hydrogen peroxide is widely used in both professional salon and at-home perm kits for its efficient oxidation performance. The usage of oxidizing agents is directly proportional to that of reducing agents, as they work in tandem to complete the curl formation cycle. Excessive concentration of oxidizing agents can lead to hair dryness and breakage, so the industry strictly controls their dosage to balance styling effectiveness and hair health.
Alkaline Regulators
Alkaline regulators create the necessary pH environment for the curling reaction, typically raising the pH to 9-10.5 to open the hair cuticle and facilitate the penetration of reducing agents. Ammonia and ethanolamine are the most commonly used alkaline regulators. Ammonia has long been a traditional component due to its strong alkalinity and cost-effectiveness, but its pungent odor and potential scalp irritation have driven the development of ammonia-free alternatives. Ethanolamine, as a milder alkaline agent, is increasingly adopted in modern perm products to enhance user comfort. With the rising popularity of ammonia-free formulations in the global market, the consumption of ethanolamine is growing at a faster rate, while ammonia usage is gradually declining but remains significant in cost-sensitive product segments.
Styling Polymers
Styling polymers are key to maintaining curl durability and resistance to environmental factors like humidity. Common types include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl acetate (PVA), and copolymers such as PVP/VA. These polymers form a thin film on the hair surface to lock in the curled shape, with different polymers offering varying levels of hold strength and flexibility. The global demand for hair styling polymers is robust, with core products like PVP and its copolymers accounting for a large share of the market. Leading manufacturers such as BASF, Ashland, and Lubrizol Corporation supply over half of the world's styling polymers, supporting the production of hair gels, mousses, and perm maintenance products.
Auxiliary Ingredients
Auxiliary ingredients are added to mitigate hair damage and improve product performance. Keratin and hydrolyzed wheat protein are widely used to form a protective layer on hair strands, reducing the harsh effects of core chemicals. Hydrolyzed silk protein, with a global supply growth rate of over 19%, is increasingly incorporated into high-end perm products for its nourishing properties. Additionally, plant extracts such as polygonum multiflorum and platycladus orientalis extracts, with annual global exports exceeding 1,200 tons, are gaining traction as natural soothing agents. Fragrances and pigments are also included to enhance user experience, though they must comply with international safety standards to avoid allergic reactions.
Global Usage and Market Dynamics
Regulatory policies are shaping raw material usage patterns. The EU's Ecodesign Directive requires a 30% reduction in energy consumption for related products, driving the adoption of low-concentration, high-efficiency raw materials. Safety standards, such as limiting thioglycolic acid concentrations to below 8% in some regions, are also influencing formulation adjustments. Additionally, U.S. tariffs on key raw materials have increased supply chain complexity, prompting manufacturers to optimize regional sourcing strategies.